April 2024

The end of March passed quietly with work and a few more leisurely beach walks, associated coral admiration and octopus soccer games.  Fly outbreaks are coming more frequently, always way worse when we've forgotten our head nets.  We just have to be grateful that they do go as well as come, and when they don't bite, you do kinda get used to them.  Recently the bitey ones have been making an appearance, which is a right old nuisance and not so easy to get used to.  We're still working on the best strategies.  We've been in the Pilbara for 6 months now, but we're a long way off claiming to have the red dust in our veins.  However, I can definitely say that I've had the red dust in my sinuses.  That's enough moaning for now.

                                 

Peter is still forcing himself to go fishing, and he even caught a couple of magnificent queenfish that are still feeding us.  Once while he was fishing from the shore at Finucane Island, he saw what looked like a white bed sheet in the ocean.  It was an enormous manta ray that he was relieved not to have hooked.  The picture shows its belly as it was rolling on the surface.

                   

'Staircase to the Moon' is a natural phenomenon caused by a full moon reflecting off exposed mudflats at low tides, creating a beautiful optical illusion of a magical staircase reaching the moon.  It happens between April and October along the Pilbara and Kimberley coastline, and there's a dedicated viewing platform in Port Hedland.  We saw it on 2 consecutive evenings - the first low tide was still in daylight and the second just after dusk (photo 3).  An awesome spectacle that the photos don’t do too much justice to.   We walked home across Pretty Pool beach in the dark, wading through thigh high water as we crossed the creek, lit only by the light of my phone torch and trying not to imagine what creatures may be lurking therein!

       

The long Easter weekend provided a mini-break opportunity and we headed to Karijini for a glamping experience. The Eco Retreat is a big site close to Joffre Gorge.  Our tent accommodation included a comfy bed, outdoor covered bathroom, one power socket and a fan. There was drinking water and a cool box but no cooking facilities other than bbqs in communal spaces.  Breakfast was served in the main centre and we had dinner at the site restaurant a couple of times. The site has its own environmentally friendly wastewater plant that recycles grey water into the native bushland. The system is occupied by frogs which are an indicator that the system is healthy.  We saw and flushed away several of these small frogs in the toilet - definitely a whole new toilet experience!  One even landed briefly on my head as I was brushing my teeth. 

We took a walk to the Joffre Gorge from the campsite. We’ve been in the gorge before, but this time took a different route to reach the laddered descent. En route, we were warned that a large black snake had been spotted in one of the pools - somehow that took away the joy of a gorge swim!  Instead, we paddled to cool off and did a bit of rock scrambling between pools.

 

The next day we drove to Dales Gorge and took a magnificent walk down a rough, steep path into and then along the gorge basin. Probably one of the best walks ever in terms of sheer awe and variety. The route ended up in Fortescue Falls and then onto Fern Pool. This time we were prepared with togs and the swimming was utterly glorious. Peter was even briefly tempted into the fresh, cool water.  Curious tree roots, breathtaking reflections, curtain waterfalls with rocky ledges, nibbly small fish, deep blue skies, white gum bark and red rock - such a soothing assault on the senses.  We took the same path back, but a small detour took us to another breathtakingly lovely gorge pool that simply had to be experienced.  A sign at Fern Pool sums it all up: 

“A gorgeous life - rock figs cling to ledges, their roots arriving down to fresh water. Squabbling flying foxes hang from paperbark trees and tiny maidenhair ferns soak up moisture in rock fissures. Olive pythons live close to water but are rarely seen. Cicadas sing in search of a mate while avoiding the webs of the golden orb spider and jewel-coloured dragonflies hover over gorge pools snatching and snacking on insects in flight."  

     

           

What a day! Surely nothing can top that, so we thought.  We set off tentatively to Hamersley Gorge the next day. The road was mostly unsealed - about 80kms of rocky red dust road that we rattled along.  Other passing vehicles, thankfully few, threw up huge dust clouds that reduced visibility to nothing.   At one point a lone dingo wandered across the road.  Arriving at Hamersley was a bit like finding an oasis in the desert.  At road level, there was very little to indicate that way below, an absolutely stunning gorge had been carved out.  A steep but solid path took us down to the series of rock formations and pools of the Hamersley Gorge.  There were plenty of other visitors and that was the only small downside, so we headed first to the farthest point of the gorge - the least occupied pool.  Such a perfect outdoor swimming experience, enhanced yet further by the discovery of the jewel-coloured natural rock pool with its own little waterfall at the top - truly a revitalising spa experience like no other.  A brief scramble over slippery rocks and then a glorious splash down and a relaxing soak in this small deep pool.  There are no words to describe the total nature-perfection of this amazing space.

 

Further down the gorge was yet another large pool that extended out of the gorge in river form.  A gentle swim, escorted by mating dragonflies, until I swam far enough away to be alone.  I rested on a big rock in the middle of the water, surrounded by rocky walls and vegetation.  What a magical place.  The rock formations and colours are amazing - purple and orange swirls and layers, quite unlike any I’d seen before.  It's another place I'd love to re-visit one day.   One final zone - Hancock and Weano Gorges - was closed for access maintenance, so we'll just have to go back to Karijini anyway.  

A couple of days after returning home, we were off again.  We flew to Perth separately as work had organised my flight and it was cheaper for Peter to take an earlier plane.  It seems that my superpower has transferred to Australia.  I had to stop myself apologising to all those other waiting people for the 3-hour flight delay that inevitably occurs when I'm on the passenger list.  And I'd even managed to stop the airport train for a whole week.  I walked to my workshop the following morning via Perth's Kings Park, a pretty route but alas full of bitey insects.  

We arrived in Bunbury the next morning, passing through a field of emus en route. I was working and on call for the week, but the Special Care Nursery was fairly quiet the whole time.  Peter got out and about for a spot of fishing, and we managed to squeeze in some exploring in my down time.  The motel was next to the lighthouse and right on the beach, so lovely views and easy to find our way around and back.  Bunbury is home to probably the best Farmer's Market in the world, a beautifully presented feast for the eyes and tummy, 90% sourced locally.

We took a trip to nearby Busselton, famous for its 1.84km timber-piled jetty, the longest in the Southern Hemisphere.  It's a very pretty place - lots of white sand and blue sea and lovely climate - and very family-orientated, but not too much of interest to us.

Swimming with dolphins is big in Bunbury, where it's part of a conservation project.  There's a large but relatively shallow bay where dolphins come to birth their babies, and we were lucky enough to see a few mother and baby dyads, so very cute.  The swimming tour was awesome, and our group had 4 sessions in the sea when there were dolphins swimming beneath us and close by.  We had masks and snorkels so could watch these beautiful creatures underwater. The dolphin centre also has an aquarium, which was very impressive.  Lucas has recently set up a marine tank at home, so we sent him a few ideas for project expansion.  I also learned that birthing bottlenose dolphin mothers are helped by 2 or 3 females who act as midwives.  So, if I come back one day as a dolphin, I could still be a midwife.  Cool, eh?  Or as Peter kindly pointed out, the same if I come back as a toad.

We did a fab walking trail in Big Swamp Parkland, which was delightful, despite being much drier than usual from reduced rainfall.  There were several australasian swamphens wandering around fearlessly - red beak, blue and black plumage and a white bottom - similar to NZ Pukekos (except for the white bottom).  There were also yellow-billed spoonbills, wood ducks, black ducks, white-faced herons, black-winged stilts and pelicans.  A few new entries for Peter's bird list.  

Another walk in Maidens Reserve took us up hundreds of steps to a lookout point over Bunbury and the Indian Ocean, a stunning little spot to absorb the beauty of this part of WA.

The Leicester Ramble along the Collie River and the Leschenault Estuary, just north of Bunbury were also lovely walks.  There were heaps of black swans in the Collie, and several australian darters looking out over the river from the trees lining the banks.  The tree in the photo is chock-full of cormorants, an unbelievable sight - covering the branches as if they were its fruit.  Unfortunately we didn't manage to see or hear one of the rare local residents - motorbike frogs (google them!). 

For our final day, we went to the small town of Margaret River, renowned as a wine region and for its craft breweries.  It has a lovely youthful vibe (yes, we raised the average age considerably) and there was much to do.  First up we headed to the Eagles Heritage, a sanctuary for birds of prey, of particular interest to Peter but a good trip for me too.  There was an awesome black kite flying display and lots of different rehabilitating birds to check out.  

We took a wander down the Margaret River itself, also with limited water in places, but a lovely walk nonetheless.  And a good opportunity to try out reflection photography.

Then we headed to the coast where there were many beaches to choose from.  We settled for the Margaret River Mouth Beach and Prevelly Beach.  We took a short walk up the river, which curiously comes close, but doesn't actually connect to the sea in the summer.   Then we hit the rocks pools and the beach.  There's a very bizarre statue of a woman breastfeeding a baby whale perched on a boulder.  I can't find the story of why the sculptor chose this particular form, but maybe best not to know.  We called by the Passel Estate Winery on our way home (it'd be rude not to) where Peter splashed out on an expensive bottle of Cabernet Sauvignon that he plans to take back to NZ.

We had just enough time before boarding our return flight in Perth to meet with Amanda and Dimitri (also Alexander, the photographer) for a riverside lunch.  We hadn't seen Dimitri for years, really pleasant to catch up with these lovely people.

I'm publishing this blog astonishing early as we're heading on actual holiday the day after tomorrow yippee! There are already far too many photos on this post, so I'll include Exmouth shots in the next one.  Better get on with some packing then.  Happy days 😁