October 2018

The Wairau Valley Garden Tour has been and gone, and overall it was a great experience for me and Karyn.  The 2 days preceding the tour were totally rained out – great for growing but hopeless for tidying up and weeding.  Somehow, most of the important jobs were done and the kitchen garden has probably never looked so tidy, nor ever will again.  Signs were put up around the garden explaining how things worked (e.g. keyhole beds, weed control, pest management, Solly) and there were lots of questions and good old garden discussions.  I picked up a few tips, like using paper bags over grape bunches and thick newspaper to combat twitch grass.  By far the commonest question related to pink-flowered strawberries, which I think may be the result of hybridisation of alpine strawberries with common strawberries.  This is pure speculation, as I can’t really come up with any other explanation.  Several people left happily with potted pink strawberry plants.  Regrettably, I’d weeded that bed and surrounding path in the rain the day before and had relegated loads more to the compost heap.  

Despite being adamant about not undertaking another garden project this year, a new woodlot has made an appearance.  It started with the 8 Manuka trees that I acquired at the ApiNZ conference, 6 of which were yet to be homed.  Then I realised that 6 (of 7) oak trees that I’d grown in pots from acorns about 3 years ago had survived serious neglect/abandonment and were eager to grow bigger.  Then it was Karyn’s birthday and she’d been wanting to plant a maple tree (to tap for maple syrup) for ages.  A single mature-ish plant cost pretty much the same as a bulk lot of 10 very young trees, so instead of one, she got 10.  Then there were the 3 peach trees, grown from peach stones, gifted to Karyn, and planted temporarily in her plot.  That’s quite a list already, but luckily there’s a big section of the horse arena just sitting there being overgrown.  Digging holes was a nightmare – having to penetrate established pasture weeds and several inches of hardcore.  Each tree got a few spadesful of compost to keep them going until their roots get to the soil below the horse arena.  In the end, there was space to also squeeze in 4 Eucalypts (Leucoxylon - winter flowering for bees), 4 Kanuka and a rogue pomegranate.  And that was just one side of the section.  The other side now contains 2 of the oaks, 3 hazelnuts, 2 sweet chestnuts, one almond and one walnut (seedling).  Phew.  Who needs a gym membership?  This woodlot is much closer to the house than our previous attempt, so it’s in with a chance of being looked after.  A hose is lined up to make irrigation really easy, and each tree has its own wool mulch mat pegged around its base.  Dastardly weed killer has also been sprayed in places to reduce the massive weed load.  Here’s hoping that some of these young trees make it to firewood.

Another project that has reached the top of the list is a deck.  We’ve created a simple design that wraps around the back and side of the house so that each of the 3 ranch-sliders will open out onto decking.  It gets rid of a great big chunk of lawn (no boys left at home to mow), and the flower bed at the back and the native bed at the side have been significantly widened/lengthened.  There’ll be a single wide step down along the length of the far edge, wide enough to sit on, and gravelled paths that connect to the existing paths running along the edges of the deck and to the back gate.  One tall post will eventually hold a corner of a shade sail.  Peter’s ordered the wood and bought himself a mitre saw, and he's already got the first posts in.  The photos show the weed mat paths and rocks that will border the planting beds.  More hideous weed killer has been sprayed on the lawn that will be under the deck and paths.  That was a really awful task - so sorry bees and other insects.  Now I'm on the look-out for flowering and native plants to fill the expanded beds.  Divisions of current plants will be possible once they've flowered, and there are 5 roses that will need to make their way over.  Totally the wrong time of year to move them (I can hear you tutting Karyn) but it's hard to kill a rose eh?

A gorgeous red rhododendron behind the pizza oven is flowering away, and another red rhodie next to the front door has just opened its first blossom.  The colours in the garden are ridiculously cheery, from the deep blue of the ceanothus to the white Mexican orange blossom, and the bright red poppies.  Paeonies are poised to burst any second now, and rosebuds are filling.  The burgeoning lemonwood hedge is showing promise that it will eventually showcase the plants before it.  The herbs are also flaunting themselves – bright pinky-purple rosemary flowers and heaps of fat sage buds, and chamomile and fennel popping up wherever it likes.

Lots of veges are planted up, including spuds, though there’s still space for more.  We’re not necessarily done with the frosty nights, so the likes of beans, snow peas and corn still need some protection.  Cucumbers, peppers and tomatoes are being tended by Madame Cholet, and several other trays of seedlings are ready to be planted out.  There’s plenty of spare pea straw that isn’t needed to re-mulch the vege garden – it’s gone down in the expanded native bed near the house.   Weed control of the paths can be done with strong vinegar and Epsom salts now that all of them are young and small.  The joys of having to get all your garden sorted out for a tour!  Here’s hoping it works.  An organic weed killer was recommended by a garden tour visitor that I may try out if not.

Sad plans are slowly being made to deal with the barren cattle and sheep.  Peter’s looking at water buffalo (again) and we’ll probably get more ewes.  The bees are busy, and Derryn has a split that I can have to replace the colony that died out in early spring.  That’ll bring me up to 3 colonies again, plus enough hive ware for a 4^th if a swarm presents.  A quick decision to get pigs was made when we spotted some Wessex Saddleback (probably crosses) locally for sale.  They were delivered the next day after a bit of sty and run preparation.  As usual, Karyn got the naming rights.  We rejected the bacon-themed names (Crispy?? Really???) and have settled instead on amazing wizards.  Voldemort is totally black, Dumbledore has a wide saddle, and Snape a narrower saddle.  They're 10-week old chunky critters and it's lovely to hear their dulcet tones as they go about trashing the run.

Billy has left home once more, this time into the creature comforts of the delightful Lazy Mazy (who, unbelievably, he plans to re-name! Outrageous.)  She’s now parked up at Outward Bound, awaiting a power source extension.  He’ll be coming home on his days off, but otherwise will be stylishly accommodated in the caravan.  Both Lucas and Sam (with Molly) came home for a weekend, so we were all together as a family again, if only briefly.  Enough time, apparently, to be subjected to Monopoly, which Molly won resoundingly.  Christmas requests and plans were made, and a shocking realisation that the Christmas cake didn't exist yet.  Usually, it's baked around Easter and packed full of brandy.  The ingredients were duly rounded up and this year's cake is indulgently marinading in a decent volume of brandy, awaiting its decoration with marzipan and icing in the theme of 'China'.   The request is for a traditional turkey dinner this year, which hasn't been done since our first NZ Christmas when it was 28 degrees and no-one was hungry.  After 13 years maybe it's worth another try, if only for nostalgia.  We're really looking forward to a visit from Auntie Sally in early/mid-December, so starting to think about what activities we can line up for her.  Hmmm, maybe egg-roulette??

We're still on alert for a final frost (known here as the Muller Frost - named after the bloke who noticed that there was always one more frost after you were sure they were over), but otherwise are contentedly adjusting to the balmier temperatures of spring.  It's a truly beautiful time of year to be living so close to nature, a blessing indeed.  

Peru (ii) Cusco Machu Picchu

August 29
We arrived in Cusco and for the first time, were ripped off.  An airport attendant chancer introduced himself to Peter, and we believed he was our guide.  He wasn't, and luckily we spotted our real guide, but not before the chancer had wheeled our luggage out of the airport and demanded a tip.  
We were dropped off at our accommodation (Casa Esmeralda), so we unloaded and took a walk into Cusco town.  That's when the altitude hit us, and world began to wobble, not unlike after imbibing way too much sloe gin.  A good meal, plenty of drinking water and lots of coca leaf tea improved things somewhat, and our spirits were lifted by a noisy, colourful and vibrant parade to celebrate Santa Rosa.  Apparently, parades like this are frequent occurrences across Peru.  Back to the hotel, and an indulgent hot shower.

August 30
Still feeling a bit wobbly but OK.  We took a coach ride to the Inca ruins in Pisaq, and then a stop at Pisaq market - full of silverware, colourful polished rocks and expensive alpaca garments.  Our guide was of Inca descent and very knowledgeable about local history  We were amazed to see lots of eucalyptus trees.  These were planted when some of the native trees died off and have been successful in providing a means of income and construction materials for locals.  Very odd to see though.  We had a delicious buffet lunch at a local restaurant and then onto Ollantaytambo to the Inca ruins there.  Most of the best-preserved ruins at both Pisaq and Ollantaytambo are the Inca terraces.  The Spanish Conquistadors destroyed pretty much everything else, but they never found Machu Picchu because of its isolated location.  Machu Picchu may not have been a particularly important settlement (Cusco was the 'navel' of the Incan empire and a very important city) but it survived pretty much intact.  
We took the train (IncaRail) from Ollantaytambo to Machi Picchu village through the jaw-droppingly towering and beautiful Andes.  Here we stayed in Rapuwasi Lodge overnight.  The village is a tourist hot-spot, located among near-vertical mountains, a fast flowing river and huge rock boulders. 

August 31
Up at the crack of dawn, herded onto a coach and taken up to the entrance to Machu Picchu.  Our guide informed us that the 3-5,000 tourists every day were wreaking havoc on the environment and that it's likely that Machu Picchu will be restricted or even closed to tourists in the near future.  We steadily climbed up the track until we reached the classic viewpoint of the Inca town.  Despite the volume of tourists and the specified route we had to follow, this was still a humbling place to experience.  The architecture, the houses, the Sun Temple, the alignment to the stars, the earthquake protection, the samples of crop plants, Temple of the Condor and of course, the fabulous terracing - all incredibly perched on a mountain.  Hard to describe, but a truly awesome spiritual environment.  We chickened out of our pre-booked climb of the Waynapicchu mountain (the classic vertical mountain behind Machu Picchu) because it was very hot and humid, and my eye sight was too dodgy.  
We returned to Cusco via coach, train and car ride.  It was a lot of travel and we were hit by altitude on our return to Cusco (3399m compared to Machu Picchu at 2430m).  The train ride back was with PeruRail and was quite upmarket.  Beautiful Peruvian tablecloths were on the table, and the cutlery was neatly laid out.  We were fed a sandwich and a chocolate muffin, both delicious, and then the crew came and collected the unused cutlery!  Next a very colourful 'demon' came dancing down the corridor, engaging some of the other passengers in dance.  Very corny, but taken in good grace and with lots of cheers and applause by those on the train.  Then there was a fashion show, with gorgeous and expensive alpaca clothing modelled along the corridor runway to the beat of lively music.  As Peter said, you don't get that on British Rail.  The sun set on the Andes as we chugged along. It was an unreal but very lovely experience.      

 

 
 

 

 

 

 

     

 

Peru (iii) Iquitos

September 1
Back to the airport and to our final destination - Iquitos, the capital of the Peruvian Amazon and the largest city with no road access in the world.  The view from the plane was fantastic - dense jungle, windy rivers and numerous oxbow lakes.  As we headed to the Hotel Cauchero, our impression of the city was uplifting.  It was vibrant, welcoming, poor but not obviously poverty-stricken like some parts of Cusco and packed with moto-taxis and motorbikes that drove chaotically and with frequent horn-blowing, but without aggression or road rage.  And it was very hot.  Our room was basic, but clean and with aircon.  No hot water of course, and as usual a bin next to the toilet to dispose of toilet paper that the sewage systems can't deal with (took a bit of getting used to).  There was a bar next door that was loud and joyful, but quietened down relatively early in the evenings.  We took a pleasant meander around the town, in particular along the Malecon (Esplanade) that runs along the banks of the Itaya River.  We treated ourselves to a meal at 'Dawn on the Amazon' restaurant that served local food and had a menu with English translations.  The Dorado fish was fabulous.  
Guillermo and Devon met Peter at the hotel to discuss his fishing agenda for the next few days.

September 2
Peter headed away for his fishing expedition, and with some apprehension, I made my own plans.  I took a trip to the local Animal Rescue Centre.  Manatees were their focus, but they also took care of monkeys, cayman, otters, turtles and a young ocelot.  All were rescued as infants and will be returned to the wild when they are rehabilitated.  For manatees, this process takes 4 years, and for much of the process, they are not allowed to have human contact.
I went back to the hotel for a shower (best time of day for this) and a snooze, and then another walk around town, taking in some of the artisan shops.  As it was Sunday, lots of places were closed.  I had dinner at the 'Yellow Rose of Texas' restaurant, another place serving local fayre and with an English menu.  Here I had 'pataraschca' - a delicious local fish dish made from fresh fish cooked in banana leaves.  The city in the evening was full of families, music, young people, moto-taxis and joie de vivre.  I felt quite invisible and unthreatened. 
The restaurant also proudly served the 'ayahuasca diet' for those coming to Peru on a mystic / hallucinogenic retreat.  Ayahuasca is a brew made of Banisteriopsis caapi vine and other ingredients, capable of inducing altered states of consciousness. It's a purge, making people vomit, and often get diarrhoea. It's believed to purify the mind through meaningful psychological experiences or visions that are healing and transformation-enabling. Several people are at El Cauchero en route to Kapitari - an ayahuasca healing centre near Iquitos.

September 3
Another day wandering in the warmth of Iquitos.  I tried to go into an art gallery, but after being implored to sit and wait, found out that the place is only an Art Gallery at the weekends, and in the week it's a school!  Mental note to learn more Spanish.  Then the heavens opened and rain sheeted down for several minutes.  It repeated this pattern during the day and flood water accumulated everywhere, including the hotel entrance.  It was obviously a regular occurrence as everyone just carried on without taking too much notice.  I went to look around the Boat Museum, just outside the hotel.  It had a historical theme detailing the development of the rubber industry and the making of the film 'Fitzcarraldo' by German producer Werner Herzog.  I also took a trip to the Culture Museum that held lots of traditional items from many of the indigenous tribes around South America (headdresses, combs, baskets, pottery, clothing, musical instruments, weapons etc).  I hit the next rain shower on my way back and returned drenched.  Hope the rain isn't causing problems for Peter.  The evening's entertainment included another lightning storm, more patarashca and local Cusquena Wheat beer.  With more rain forecast overnight, my intended river trip was doomed.  

Meanwhile...
Peter took a boat trip to a place called Indiana, then a moto-taxi to Mazan.  He was transported by boat to the lodge where he was staying for two nights.  Lunch was perfect - steak n chips n beans n stuff - then out into the jungle catching fish with nets in the Amazon.  Great to catch killifish, cichlids, knife fish, catfish and hatchet fish.  These were photographed and sadly released.  NZ biosecurity doesn't allow import of these fish.  There were also loads of birds including kingfishers, macaws, parrots and woodpeckers.  Bugs too - water stick insects, stick insects, spiders, swallow-tailed butterflies and massive metallic blue morpho butterflies.  That night there was an impressive thunderstorm and the morning saw a big rise in the water level that made the planned fishing difficult.  They still caught some interesting fish and ended the day back at the lodge fishing from the bank. A young local boy managed to catch a tiger shovelnose catfish that ended up on the evening meal menu.  The
next morning he watched the river dolphins for about twenty minutes before breakfast then returned by boat to Iquitos.

September 4
I did a bit of gift shopping around town before Peter arrived back.  Then we revisited some of the artisan places and generally had an easy day.  We wandered down to a local restaurant called 'Kikiriki' (means Cockadoodledoo) for a fried chicken and plantain dinner.  A bit like a Peruvian KFC but much tastier.  No one spoke English but we managed to order what we wanted, with the waitress hilariously gesturing portion size and 'breast' or 'thigh' options.  It was washed down with more Cusquena beer.  Very yum. 

September 5
Our last morning in Iquitos so we took a moto-taxi to Belen market.  Known as the Venice of Peru, it's renowned for its huge market, lots of it on stilts over the Amazon.  There were some warnings of petty theft (probably the only crime around Iquitos) but we felt safe and able to wander up and down the rows of produce at our leisure.   There were massive piles of fish, chicken, fruit and western style clothes and goods.  Peter was amazed to see heaps of fish for eating that would individually sell for a high price abroad in the aquarium trade.  The suburb of Belen is under threat of being moved because of river pollution, and certainly, we saw lots of plastic and other rubbish.  As the river level drops in the dry season, these become more apparent and present a hygiene issue.  Not surprisingly the Belen people are resisting a move from their traditional abode.
All too soon it was time to return to the airport and back to Lima.  We stayed in a hotel close to the airport and in a fairly run-down part of Lima.  We took a wander to find food and stopped at a small cafe for another chicken dinner.  There was no menu, they just served chicken dinners.  We asked for 'dos' and a couple of 'Inca Colas' to wash it down with.  
Our flight home went via Buenos Aires (Peter had a cheery conversation with a customs official about rugby), Santiago and Auckland over far too many hours.  All were on time, even the final Air NZ flight!  
It had been an 'other-worldly' experience.  No thoughts of work or home, just immersion in the culture and natural environment.  An amazing destination, a perfect holiday.  Sooo lucky.