It's been a breezy kinda month. Just a few community working days at Wairau at the start, followed by a week dog-sitting in Rolleston, walking, and catching up with fab fam and friends. Then a fortnight on a jaw-droppingly gorgeous tropical island - Rarotonga - to celebrate my 'special' birthday. Feeling nearly retired, but aware that it's the calm before the work storm starting next month. Luckily, I have a strategy: Deny, deny, deny...
Advance warning that this blog contains far too many photos, generally, and of the smug variety in particular. The Cook Islands are simply magical, and so picture-postcard perfect it's hard to believe they're real at all. Deep blue sky, sea of many blue-green hues, rocky reefs, corals, multiple stunning tropical fish, palm trees, sunsets, friendly chill dogs, wild chickens, and warm people. There are plenty of varied activities for tourists seeking entertainment, and pricing is not cheap but is good value. The temperature remained between 22-24 degrees day and night, occasionally humid, and not too many bitey insects. There was a little rain and some wind, but the weather never interfered with holiday plans.
Accommodation was at Coral Sands in Arorangi on the western side of Rarotonga. The taxi ride took about 10 minutes from the airport, and as soon as we turned off the coast road - Ara Tapu - the reef shelf and Pacific Ocean were immediately visible about 20m from the apartment. Humpback whales migrate to the warmer waters of the Cook Islands from August to October to birth their calves, and we were very privileged to observe them breaching and slapping their tails many times during our stay.
Snorkeling in the shallow reef just outside the apartment and elsewhere across the island (Aroa Beach and Black Rock) was amazing. Numerous varieties of fish and statuesque corals and rocky reefs provided mesmerising views at each turn. What a joy to be connected to this other-worldliness place, where the fish keep doing their fishy thing, unconcerned about the odd human stalker. The reef shelf extends all around the island, and even at high tide (not very high), it's mostly shallow enough to stand if needed. Other than stonefish and being thrown onto sharp, reef rocks by a current, there's nothing to worry about. Endless hours spent just cruising with the sea life is my idea of heaven. I'd bought my own good-quality mask and snorkel, and they definitely enhanced the experience.
Rarotonga is a favourite holiday destination for Kiwis, so no surprises that someone I knew was also soaking up the Cook Islands vibe. Lovely Helen, a former colleague at Wairau and now living in Nelson, was there too. I walked into Avarua and we met at Punanga Nui Market for a coffee, and later I cycled to 'Charlie's' on my hired e-bike (along with serious saddle-sore sitz bones) for a Mai Tai cocktail. Thanks Helen, great to see you and Doug 😁
Another e-bike destination was Maire Nui gardens and cafe - a tropical oasis full of lush, colourful plants, walkways, rock formations, and bridges. Very enjoyable to see such a variety of plant life, and the cafe food was superb too.
Naively, I signed up for Pa's cross-island trek via Te Rua Manga, aka Needle Rock. The walk requires average to above-average fitness, so I was aware that either it might be tough or that I was delusional. Determined, I went ahead, and sure enough, I was the slowest among the friendly group. It was bloody steep and very slippery, with multiple opportunities to break a few bones. Several places had ropes to help you stay upright, which could have been very helpful if I'd had 2 strong shoulders. Instead, I had to do quite a bit of muddy bottom-shuffling and wished that I wasn't delaying everyone else. But it was totally worth it because I did make it, and the views were incredible. Such a different perspective of the island, and lots of interesting information about local flora, fauna, geography, and politics from our guide Bruce (of Travel Guides fame). And of course, chickens.
One afternoon, we took the round island bus (they go clockwise and anticlockwise every hour) to Muri Beach on the east of the island. We had a beach walk and a sneaky cocktail at a beach bar, and joined the Fire on Water Night Paddle Tour. We've never paddle-boarded before, but after a few instructions were on our way without incident (i.e., not falling in). We paddled to a small island to watch a fire display and had a go ourselves. By then, it was dark, and the LED lights under the paddleboards provided a beautiful view of the shallow sea within the reef. I was hoping to see more fish and turtles, but alas not so lucky that evening. I'd love to have a crack at paddle-boarding again one day.
My 60th birthday was spent on the breathtakingly beautiful island of Aitutaki and the surrounding lagoons and smaller islands. A 40-minute flight took us to Aitutaki, where we had a short road tour and were taken to the boat, which would cruise us around this awesome place. A live band welcomed us aboard and played throughout the trip, delish food was provided, and a bar kept us even happier. We had opportunities to swim in the turquoise sea (50 shades of blue, according to our guide Ali) and a phenomenal snorkeling experience that included some enormous clams. I'd be very happy to spend every birthday at Aitutaki!
By the time the Moana Sea Scooter Turtle Tour came along, I hadn't seen a turtle. But they were there, and this tour totally replenished my turtle void. Sea scooters are pretty darn cool, making snorkeling totally effortless and more than a bit James Bond. They make diving down and up easy. There were many Green Sea Turtles in the Avaavaroa passage (a channel through the reef connecting the land to the open ocean), and they seemed unbothered by the powered humans eager to hang out with them. The channel is known for its strong currents, hence the scooters, but it wasn't really a problem.
It's no secret that I love a garden tour, so when I spotted the Arataki Organic Gardens, I signed up immediately. I had a personalised tour from owners Mirella and Katoa, who developed their garden during Covid as a means of becoming more self-sufficient. Ships bringing food were sporadic, and they wanted to future-proof food sources for themselves and their neighbours. What a joy this small garden is, packed full of tropical fruit trees and vegetables. The tour includes many tasting opportunities and lots of education about the characteristics of the plants and their medicinal values. No apologies for the volume of photos - I want to remember these extraordinary plants. From the top: Soursop; Morinda (anti-cancer qualities); Tamarind; Guava; Rosella (Hibiscus); Pandanus (used for weaving, similar to flax); banana (not a tree but a herb!); Pigeon Pea; Pineapple; Mirella with some of her selection of juices and produce, including bananas 5-ways; Moringa (aka Miracle Tree or Tree of Life); me extracting coconut meat from a half shell (usually a Sunday task for children). Such a memorable day. Who wouldn't want a tropical garden like this??
Meanwhile, Peter went out on a fishing charter. He landed the only bite of the day - this huge Mahi Mahi. It was filleted and shared among the others who were also fishing. Our portion was more than enough for 2 generous meals each. Yum.
I'd love to return to Rarotonga one day and do all those things I missed out on this time, and for unlimited fixes of delightful snorkeling. For now, thanks and goodbye Cook Islands, until we meet again... Back home, spring is springing (officially starts tomorrow), weeds are being weedy, and buds are bursting. There are daffodils along the Taylor River in town, early plum blossoms in the orchard and welcoming chaenomeles flowers on the driveway. The cows have survived their limited rations, and no lambs were born in our absence. All is well and it's good to be home.
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